• A TASTE OF LIVING FLESH



    JON FASMAN | ACCOUNTING FOR TASTE | December 5th 2007

    savagecorp/Flickr


    What is it that conditions us to appreciate freshness right up to the point of life, but not beyond? To answer the question--squeamish readers, stop right here--Jon Fasman considers living food, and very dead food indeed ...


    Special to MORE INTELLIGENT LIFE
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  • WITH YOUR HEART IN MY MOUTH


    JON FASMAN | ACCOUNTING FOR TASTE

    Offal is is the bold diner's favourite dish, and the restaurateur's too: buy cheap, sell dear. But in the first of his new weekly food columns, Jon Fasman worries that fashionability may be driving up the price of a juicy cheek or a well-pressed ear ...

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  • A BRILLIANCE OF BURGUNDIES


    AND AN AFTERTASTE YOU COULD SPREAD ON A BISCUIT

    Bruce Palling goes bananas for top Burgundy, uncorks a few metaphors, and corrects those less discerning wine-drinkers who might have been careless enough to think of Burgundy as merely a Mozart to Bordeaux's Bach ...

    From our food and drink blog, MORE, PLEASE!  read more »


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  • THE $10,000 GIN AND TONIC


    IF YOU HAVE A LABORATORY AND A COUPLE OF DAYS TO SPARE

    While other cooks devise recipies, Dave Arnold customises coffee machines. He cooks short ribs for three days and uses graphs to boil eggs. And now his drive for perfection has led him to investigate a classic drink. Jon Fasman watches him at work in New York...

    From INTELLIGENT LIFE magazine, September 2007  read more »


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  • KANDINSKY IN THE KITCHEN


    WITH A PINEAPPLE SCRAMBLE AND SOME EMULSIFIED POPCORN

    WD-50 (First Course), by Joe Shlabotnik/Flickr

    In the current issue of Intelligent Life, Jon Fasman writes about new American cooking. Here are his notes on a dinner at WD-50, an innovative New York restaurant, and a conversation with its chef, Wylie Dufresne ...

    Special for MORE INTELLIGENT LIFE

    OF THE 12 courses Mr Dufresne presented, only one disappointed--and it wasn't bad, just flat. That was the opening course, which consisted of a single rock shrimp, charred lily bulbs (bitter, rather acrid), some crisped goat cheese, and what the menu called "pineapple scramble": this was pineapple that had been roughly puréed and mixed with a bit of gelatin (I think; any explications of technique that follow are purely guesswork) to attain the precise texture of scrambled eggs. The four components remained unacquainted; the dish never gelled.
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