AN ENGLISH THANKSGIVING
July 4th is an American celebration that foreigners have little trouble getting their heads around. Flags flying, hamburgers frying, bombs bursting in air–the Fourth fits right in to most easy stereotypes about the states.
Having lived in London for nearly a decade, I’ve found the other quintessential American holiday, Thanksgiving, is much more likely to generate confusion. Since most of my English friends seem to have studied far more American history than I ever have, I did not expect to have to explain Thanksgiving to them. No gifts. No cards. No elaborate decorations, save for a gourd centrepiece or two.
Thanksgiving is far less commercialised than other American public holidays, and as secular or religious as you like. It is also a nice speed-bump before the Christmas rush, a trait I never fully appreciated until I moved to a city where Christmas starts in early September.
It’s exactly that shared history and culture that makes Thanksgiving a bit of a muddle. For instance, the 1621 Thanksgiving that Americans commemorate was held by thoroughly English pilgrims in New England. But the feast was an obvious milestone on the road to American independence in 1776 (or 1783, depending on your perspective).
The traditional Thanksgiving menu is even more of a minefield. English palates are well acquainted with turkey, potatoes, autumn vegetables and cranberries, but they are eaten at Christmas. This makes it difficult to convince guests that they’re enjoying a uniquely American meal, though most of this food is indigenous to the Americas. (Two countries separated by a common menu, to paraphrase George Bernard Shaw.)
A popular online supermarket here attempts to assist expats by offering a “Thanksgiving” section on its website. But like the Tokyo department store that put a crucified Santa in its Christmas window, something’s been lost in translation. The supermarket manages a few accurate notes–turkey, cranberry, cornbread–but also recommends Lucky Charms breakfast cereal, steak sauce and Marshmallow Fluff. I’d have something to say about easy stereotypes, were I not so excited to learn that Crunchy Jif peanut butter has made landfall on the isle.
Conversely, Thanksgiving here can occasionally be a little too authentic. One year our turkey arrived only partially plucked. The Pilgrims would have simply asked the nearest Wampanoag for some guidance, but we were forced to frantically consult the internet. And my English partner, now an old hand at Thanksgiving, enthusiastically makes cranberry sauce using fresh cranberries from my native Massachusetts. It’s great, but the cranberry sauce of my Yankee childhood was in fact the gelatinous stuff that bears the imprint of the can from which it was extracted.
Then there are the vegetarians, who now outnumber the omnivores among our usual Thanksgiving gang here. I’ve been tempted to say that no one ever devoured a big bowl of sprouts and then set to work building a city upon a hill.
I’m equally aware that as an immigrant now myself, this is my own chance to mix the Old World with the New. What could be more American than that? So yes to eggplant, and to aubergine as well. And a big no to the gourd centrepieces. Ditto for pumpkin pie, which I’ve never liked very much, and which no one here will miss.
~ MARK VANHOENACKER
Picture Credit: xbermatthew (via Flickr)
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Pumpkin pie
November 26, 2009 - 13:52 — Adam (not verified)Don't like pumpkin pie? You, sir, are a liar and a rogue.
Seriously, though, when I was living in the UK the thing that made me the most sad was my inability to find pumpkin pie. It's really the best food on the table...
EW! I would be completely
November 27, 2009 - 17:33 — Coffee Bump (not verified)EW! I would be completely stressed out if I only had a partially plucked turkey. I also prefer the gelatinous cranberry sauce that has a can imprint that you can slice into rings. It sounds disgusting when you say it, but it definitely is the most authentic Thanksgiving :)
Real Americans eat real cranberries
November 29, 2009 - 22:47 — Visitor (not verified)My ancestors on my mother's side came over on the Mayflower, and my ancestors on my father's side participated in the American Revolution. We eat cranberry sauce made from real cranberries. My husband's family, however, who did not arrive in America until much later (Irish and German), eat the stuff from the can. Make of that what you will.
When my children and I were staying in Bath while my husband worked in Swindon, we daily ate a little cafe with "California" in the name. They got several things right, but they missed out on offering one of the most important ingredients in any "California" style breakfast establishment - Tobasco sauce! It's not an omelette if it's not smothered in Tobasco. Any self-respecting Californian knows that.
Finally - no pumpkin pie? I'm beginning to doubt your American credentials. (I kid, of course. My husband's family doesn't like pumpkin pie either. Hmmm....)
Well, I moved to the US 24
November 30, 2009 - 12:57 — Visitor (not verified)Well, I moved to the US 24 years ago. My American born cousins all grew up with the can shaped cranberry sauce (and dry turkey) and probably still prefer it. I guess it is evocative of their childhood. I learned to cook turkey and make cranberry sauce and it is all my American born children know. As for pumpkin pie, I'm afraid I have to concur. No thanks.
Oh and Tabasco sauce on eggs? Absolutely. And I don't even live in California.