MEXICO'S HIDDEN BLACKS

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The black descendants of slaves in Mexico struggle against entrenched racism. Alexis Okeowo explores the so-called first free slave town in the Americas ...

Special to MORE INTELLIGENT LIFE

The first time I felt deeply uncomfortable being black was when I was a kid. My family had just moved to Alabama, and I was in a car with my father and my brother. A white woman with a harshly lined face and brown frizzy hair yelled out a racial slur as we drove by. Dad immediately put the car in reverse and drove over to her as she pumped gas at a filling station. "What did you say?" he demanded. She glared at him and refused to respond. Shocked into silence, my brother and I didn't say anything for the rest of the drive home.

The second time was in a quaint town in Mexico. I am a journalist living in Mexico City and I had decided to take a trip to Veracruz, where hundreds of thousands of African slaves had been brought by Spanish colonialists five centuries prior. I wanted to visit Yanga, a place that called itself "the first free slave town in the Americas". The town was named for Gaspar Yanga, a slave who had led a successful rebellion against the Spanish in the 16th century.

I had only just learned about Afro-Mexicans, the isolated descendants of Mexico's original slaves, who reside on the country's rural Pacific and Gulf Coasts. After months of research and a visit to the remote Afro-Mexican community on the Pacific Coast, where most of them live, I felt compelled to visit the Afro-Mexicans in Veracruz on the Gulf Coast. I ended up spending most of my time trying to figure out Yanga.

As I arrived in town, I peered out of my taxi window at the pastel-painted storefronts and the brown-skinned residents walking along the wide streets. "Where are the black Mexicans?" I wondered. A central sign proclaimed Yanga's role as the first Mexican town to be free from slavery, yet the descendants of these former slaves were nowhere to be found. I would later learn that most live in dilapidated settlements outside of town.

The next morning, I walked the few yards from my hotel to the town's library, my shirt sticking to my back in the heat. I had been told that the librarian was the best source of information about Yanga's history. While walking, I raised my hand to shield my eyes from the blinding sun, and also from the gaze of people in the roadside shops and central square. I had grown used to the attention in Mexico City, where blacks are a rarity, but this time it was different. The stares were cold and unfriendly, and especially unnerving in a town named for an African revolutionary.

"Mira, una negra," I heard people whisper to one another. "Look, a black woman."

"Negra! Negra!" taunted an old man with a shock of white hair under a tan sombrero. Surrounded by a group of men, he gazed at me with a big, toothy grin. He seemed to be waiting for me to come over and talk to him. Shocked, and suddenly transported to that one afternoon in Alabama, I shot him a dirty look and headed into the library's courtyard.

The notion of race in Mexico is frustratingly complex. This is a country where many are proud to claim African blood, yet discriminate against their darker countrymen. Black Mexicans complain that such bigotry makes it especially hard for them to find work. Still, I was surprised to feel like such an alien intruder in a town where I had hoped to feel something like familiarity.

Afro-Mexicans are among the poorest in the nation. Many are shunted to remote shantytowns, well out of reach of basic public services, such as schools and hospitals. Activists for Afro-Mexicans face an uphill battle for government recognition and economic development. They have long petitioned to be counted in Mexico's national census, alongside the country's 56 other official ethnic groups, but to little avail. Unofficial records put their number at 1m.

In response to activist pressure, Mexico's government released a study at the end of 2008 that confirmed that Afro-Mexicans suffer from institutional racism. Employers are less likely to employ blacks, and some schools prohibit access based on skin colour. But little has been done to change this. Afro-Mexicans lack a powerful spokesperson, so they continue to go unnoticed by the country's leadership.

"What we want is recognition of our basic rights and respect of our dignity," Rodolfo Prudente Dominguez, a top Afro-Mexican activist, said to me. "There should be sanctions against security and immigration agents who detain us, because they deny our existence on our own land."

If you have not heard of Mexico's native blacks, you are not alone. The story that has been passed down through generations is that their ancestors arrived on a slave boat filled with Cubans and Haitians, which sank off Mexico's Pacific coast. The survivors hid away in fishing villages on the shore. The story is a myth: Spanish colonialists trafficked African slaves into ports on the opposite Gulf coast, and slaves were distributed further inland. The persistence of this story explains the reluctance of many black Mexicans to embrace the label "Afro", and why many Mexicans assume black nationals hail from the Caribbean.

Colonial records show that around 200,000 African slaves were imported into Mexico in the 16th and 17th centuries to work in silver mines, sugar plantations and cattle ranches. But after Mexico won its independence from Spain, the needs of these black Mexicans were ignored.

Some Afro-Mexican activists identify themselves as part of the African diaspora. Given their rejection from Mexican culture, this offers a more empowering cultural reference. But with no collective memory of slavery (it was officially abolished in Mexico in 1822), or of any time in Africa before then, Afro-Mexicans are considerably removed from their African roots.

"Bienvenida, welcome!" called out Andres, the librarian, as he guided me into a chair. Andres is not black, but he was the first person to make me feel comfortable in Yanga. He acted as if my presence was perfectly ordinary, probably because he is accustomed to African-American visitors who are curious about his research into slavery in Mexico.

During my visit, he was in the middle of teaching an art class to young children. He told me about the slave trade and African culture festivals in Veracruz while gluing together paper-maché masks. The kids smiled shyly at me.

"There's a lot of racism here against blacks, isn't there?" I asked him, still confused about the town's hostility.

"No, not really, we're all poor, that's the problem," he answered, brushing back his brown curly hair and laughing.

Before he finished his sentence, a black Mexican woman came up to us. She exchanged a few words with Andres, and then delicately took my hand in hers.

"Bienvenida", she said, before leaving.

After leaving the library, I decided to explore. I stopped in an office to ask directions from a group of Mexican men, who flirted valiantly before wishing me well. I wandered aimlessly, nearly melting in the heat. I brooded over Mexico's contradictory feelings about race. In a place where everyone is considered "mixed race", owing to the country's long colonial history, skin colour is clearly a symbol of status. Many Mexicans are generous and kind to me, viewing my otherness as interesting and lovely. Yet black Mexicans are often mistreated and ostracised. I think about this unsettling tension when I occasionally pass a black Mexican in Mexico City, and she gives me a slight, genuine smile.

(Alexis Okeowo is a writer based in Mexico City.)

Picture credit: Cornell University Library

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Comments

On Mexico's Hidden Blacks


Interesting piece. Vivid and enlightening.

Go deeper


This piece is great in that exists at all, but it is disappointingly self-centered and light.

Comments about the heat abound, while the writer neglects any meaningful external dialogue. If there was research into this town's history, where is it in the article? We are left to wonder what happened here-- there is no detail as to the town's history, and therefore, no hints as to why its Blackness disappeared. Why not travel to nearby communities to where afrodescendants moved when non-blacks began to capitalize off of post-liberated Yanga's newly exposed population/market? Why not share that the town's original geographic location changed soon after its liberation?

Traveling by taxi alone is itself a class marker that distinguishes the writer from the very people she is discussing here. That tone turns this piece into a sort of safari, despite any positive intent. What was this writer looking for and why? To simply sell an article about the racial dilemna in Mexico? Or to attempt to deconstruct her own preconceptions about Blackness, Mexico, and the reality of racism?

There is no inspiration or analysis here, only a diletant's posturing. No presence, only nostalgia. Did the Economist's editor's fall asleep on this?

There is a history here that remains out of sight and untapped, when the purpose of this article should have been to shed light on the complexity of that history. In order to do that, one must be willing to look at the scenario with fresh eyes. Mexico is unlike most of it's neighbors in the hemisphere when it comes to the dynamics of race. We must learn to look at this place with greater intensity.

I was hopping to read


I was hopping to read something with information on where black people live in Mexico, learn about traditions, their history and whereabouts. But seems to me that there was not enough research, or that the results where not included in this article.
I'm also not sure that the article provides enough reasons to say that Mexicans discriminate black people. It is true that we very rarely see a black person walking on the street (I live in Mexico City), and that when we see one, it causes surprise, but it's the same reaction that we have when there is a foreigner, and you go: Oh! this person is from XYZ country!
So far, I haven't seen anyone being treated in a different way because of being black.
I think the librarian was right, the dirty looks came from people thinking that the journalist is rich, maybe they thought that she went there to document their condition. Unfortunately, being poor is an actual cause of discrimination in Mexico.

still hidden


Disappointing. The writer seems more interested in herself and her own feelings than the supposed subject of the story. The fact that a story about black Mexicans only includes one single-word quote from a black Mexican gives you a clue to her priorities. I'd have liked to have heard what the Afro-Mexicans of Yanga had to say, but they remain hidden...

Hidden Blacks of Mexico


In 1976, I was an anthropologist living in an "indiginous" community in the State of Puebla. A black Mexican wholesale shoe salesman and his Mexican girlfriend would pass through town on a regular basis. It was the first black Mexican I had ever seen. The town butcher explained to me that "blacks have bigger penuses than "gueros" (white people) and "indios".

AMAZING

mexican mix


The fact is that mexican's government didn't release information about history of Afro-Mexican population because race is not an issue there. If Afro-Mexican were apparteid the population of African descendents would be bigger. I belief most Afro-Mexican are already mixed, and pass as Mexican not as Afro-Mexican. This African community stay there because they want to be recognized as a race. I remember when I was in the school there. I learned that mulattos, indigenous, and meztizos fought for the independance of Mexico. Yes! history talks about black Mexicans, but they were not discrinated because slavery in Mexico was condenm since the independence from Spain. Our second Mexican president was African descendent.

Larger Peni?


I work in a health clinic in L.A. and it's been explained to me by people in the sex industry that blacks can have larger peni when flacid, but they tend to stay the same size when stimulated, whereas the non-blacks' peni can actually double in size when stimulated. Furhtermore blacks apparently climax faster and tend to have lower libido.

Blacks in Mexico


First black people must remember they are here because of the western need for labor. The land always belong to some one else and always will. No matter how much time has pass no one wants to go back to africa to live. I find this to be a double-sided coin. Claim how much you have done for someone else homeland no matter how long you have been there, it is still someone else homeland. A few leaders in Africa have offerd Blacks in parts of the Americans to return to Africa. Have not been that many takers. No matter how long Blacks have been here or other groups for the matter NA or people that lived in this part of the world have always been here a lot longer. And nothing can change that. It will always will be their homeland and not so much as others . Just look at the Jews they have lived in parts of the world from 3000 to 2500 years yet groups that were there a lot longer never saw them as being part of the larger picture and in the long run were run off or worse. Stop looking for places to be a part of. Maybe Africa will hold some of the things that you looking for. Or just stop trying to look at all. Yanga was after all from Africa and not Mexico.

Good piece, I was recently


Good piece, I was recently in Puerto Vallarta, and I saw maybe one or other black person there, and I was interested in the thought that there were others; very enlightening piece.

Unbelievable


I can't believe I'm reading a piece on Intelligent Life and people are discussing black mens' penis sizes. In 2010.
Exactly what does that have to do with this article?

I found this article to be a


I found this article to be a nice piece on a complex topic. For those who were looking for more depth can perhaps do their own research, no one is responsible for the amount of information you obtain. In response to look to Africa for a homeland is rather insensitive, for the last 100,000 years "we" (the human race) have been migrant; regardless if brought by force or will. If you want to mention origins, than consider that Mexicans and Native Americans should find their roots in Asia, and Asian's should find their roots in Africa or all people for that matter. To mention the Jew's displacement as not belonging to the rest of the world is a harsh and ignorant remark about humanity. The world is not a property it is a place for living and non living things regardless of boards. Respect for all, should be first priority.

Flawed by the American perspective


As the son of an expat couple, I was born and grew up in Mexico. I lived there until my twenties. I believe the writer's understanding is affected by her American perspective.

The reaction the writer got from the townspeople was undoubtedly more because she was a black American than because she was black. Just like Americans have trouble imagining non-brown Mexicans, Mexicans have trouble imagining non-Nordic Americans. There are relatively few blacks in Mexico because the natives there did much of the manual labor (as opposed to the US, in which Native Americans were not widely used as labor). Still, blacks are not so rare that they would turn heads, and besides, everybody is one shade of dark or the other.

It is indeed true that there is no racial awareness in Mexico. There has been too much intermixing, with 80% of the population considered "mestizo," which practically speaking means just about any combination of racial influences. It could almost be translated as "mutt." To put it in American terms, skin color in Mexico is more like hair color in the US. Sure, you have your blonde jokes and stereotypes about redheads, but clearly we are not hyper-aware of hair color as we are of skin color.

Instead of racism, you encounter classism in Mexico. It is a much less egalitarian society than ours, and that is the source of discrimination, not race. Here in the US, a black member of Congress might encounter racism when dealing with someone who doesn't recognize him, but a black man with class would never get hassled in Mexico. It's the same situation with people with a lot of Indian blood in them. A poor Indian suffers from discrimination, but a well-to-do Indian is treated like a peer by well-to-do non-Indians.

The writer broods about the fact that "skin colour is clearly a symbol of status," but that has nothing to do with Mexico. The reality is that there is not a society known to us in which, generally speaking, darker skin was held in higher regard than lighter skin. For the past 5,000 years, from Japan to Sweden to Africa, lighter-colored humans have filled the higher classes, and never the other way around. That's a topic worthy of investigation, but it has nothing to do with Mexico or people of African descent. If anything, Mexico is one of the few places on Earth where, regardless of how light or dark you are, you simply don't stand out because of the color of your skin.

What Makes You Believe No Other Race Belongs Here


This whole world is God's Land and God had his hand on Everyone back when the labor started, and he still has his hands on Everyone Nowdays. Just like in the Bible Days some people loose Land through wars and battle, and the English clearly won America from Spain who sold the Land. There is an African Faced Statue in Mexico that is much older than the times of Slave trading, I've also heard of Free Dreadlock Wearing Kinky Hair people living in their own areas in America before the boat arrived, some were taken as SLAVES. You are right Blacks should stop looking for places to be a part of because they are already a part of America, this is there home, so they can stop searching elsewhere, after 300 years of their ancestors homesteading they belong here just like anyone else. You become a part of your environment. That is why they are called Americans on their visa

Mexicans as well as other


Mexicans as well as other races were not Disallowed to marry Slaves, that was awesome so actually Blacks could have dignity as any other human being and do the right thing instead of having a buncha mixed babies with no commitment..At least some people legally showed their love for Africans

When you are a loved race


When you are a loved race your country will Legally show it, African's have always been human most countries reflect that in History and some countries don't but blaming each other will never help, but together we can change the future!

Flawed by American perspective


My comment is in reference to Victor who says that discrimination is not based on race but on class. I've been to five Latin-American countries where people say the same thing. If race is not the issue, Victor, then why is a disproportionate number of black people on the bottom rung of society finding it difficult to get a decent job?

Even I, a working-class black American, who can afford to travel, experienced some of the disrespect that blacks in their respective countries experienced; even in Mexico.

Amen! Amen! Speak! The truth


Amen! Amen! Speak! The truth fianlly comes out. Black people are an huge part of history even before Mexicans came about. Study the bible and your history!

I think we all need to


I think we all need to listen to Heal the World by Michael Jackson to ease some of this hatred and anger.

Racism in Mexico


I agree you with Bill. While I was in Mexico I experienced no overt racism, but I was with my white husband. I did think that I heard someone making racist remarks, but I speak very little Spanish.

However, I did notice that the people working in the hotels as managers, etc., were light-skinned and the Mayans, who were as dark or darker than me, were doing manual labor (maids, gardeners, etc.). Advertisements always featured light-skinned, European-looking models, especially women, and almost everyone on television was fair-skinned as well. The pigmentocracy reigns in Latin America, and anyone who thinks discrimination is just a matter of "class" is either very naive or in denial.

The comment above says that


The comment above says that the Mayans were the ones doing the manual labor and that the managers are usually lighter. This also has to do with your financial status. If you visited a place like Cancun or the surrounding area, what people fail to realize is that Cancun is a new city, only started being built up since around the 70's. Most of the people that live in Cancun are people who have moved there from all over Mexico, in hopes of finding jobs. The lighter or more mixed Mexicans, probably are better educated with degrees and such, coming from other cities. The majority of the Mayan people that are doing the manual labor are people who come from the small rural areas surrounding the city. This goes for all of the touristy places around Yucatan, and Quintana Roo. Most of the Mayans doing those jobs speak Spanish as a second language, speaking their Mayan dialect first, and usually do not hold high level of education, and this is why they are usually the ones doing the manual labor.

Getting back on the Afro-Mexican, topic. I do not agree with the way that this article was written. I am from Veracruz, and I have people in my family who look Afro-mexican as well as some who look completely European. The reason why I say "look" instead of "are" is because the mixture has been going on so long that someone who looks Afro-mexican may have a sibling who looks Native American, or European. This is how it is in my family.

The way that this person describes her experience, is only according to her. I think that her experience was seen in a different light having experienced racism in the US as a child. Where I am from you do not see racism like this. I do agree that the majority of the lighter people do have a higher status, and this is a cycle that hasn't been broken since the early days of Mexico, but I see poor lighter skinned Mexicans doing the same jobs and living the same way as other darker Mexicans. It is usually what you are born into and a cycle that has been hard to break.

My husband is African American. He went to Veracruz with me to visit a couple of years ago. He said that he did feel like people were staring at him, but never in a bad way. They were just intrigued, and people do tend to stare a little harder. There were people who spoke some English that were eager to speak to my husband as soon as they heard him speak English. We went to eat at a place where the lady making the food looked at my husband and told him that he reminded her of her son, and my husband thought that she looked like his African American mother. Racism in Mexico is not as bad as this article describes, but that's just my perspective. From my husband's perspective, he felt welcomed, didn't feel like he was being discriminated against, he was intrigued at the African presence in the people's faces, and every place we went everyone spoke to him in a friendly manner.

I don't agree with the tone that this article is written. It sounds bitter and generalizing a whole country because of one person's experience is not fair!

Mexico has always been a a


Mexico has always been a a racist nation. The caste system is still in place and the worst part is people pretty much accept it. The indigenous and blacks will always be treated bad and the lighter-skinned you are the better off you'll have things. I've been to Mexico dozens of times and I've seen those two groups treated like crap. I'm a mix of European(Galician) Indigenous(Apache) and African(Nigerian) and I'm very proud of all three, I think it's because I grew up in a country that gives people a chance, regardless of what colour you are. :-)